‘Culpeper bags’ | FLEAWORT * SATURN | Bag I of VII

This bag is constructed from robust 1800s French linen. The antique textile has, appropriately, been plant-dyed; in indigo and weld. Its virid colour is redolent of an ancient hedgerow at the height of its powers.

The bag’s front flap is adorned with a block print, imagined by artist maker, Janet Tristram. The print - in linseed-based Old gold - contrasts beautifully with the bag’s dark tones; so much so, it almost glows. 

The image is rooted in astrological herbalism, fusing the hedgerow with the heavens. It depicts the plant Fleawort - described by Culpeper as ‘somewhat whitish and hairy’ with seedheads ‘very like unto fleas both for colour and bigness’ - within the solid orb of ruling planet Saturn. The image is underscored by a block-printed ribbon carrying the name of both plant and planet. A pair of antique leather straps (originally girth straps from a saddle) in dark brown are hand-stitched to the flap, creating weight, balance and beauty. Their finely pointed ends mirror those of the block-printed ribbon. 

The bag’s front panel, rear panel, side panels and bottom panel are unprinted. All edges are faced with a rolled, hand-stitched hem. Open the flap, and a block-printed, hand-sewn editioning patch reveals itself, with numerals in Old gold. It reads: I of VII.

The interior has a useful pocket, and the bag is lined in striped linen, woven for us in Wexford, Ireland. Contrasting berry-toned stripes complement the bag’s colour.

The shoulder strap is beautifully worn, and of weighty dark brown leather - repurposed from equestrian tack. It is triple stitched (by hand) to the bag’s side panels, and comes with its original brass buckle, squarish with eased corners. The strap is adjustable, enabling the bag to be worn on the shoulder or across the body. It has an elegant, holed, trailing surplus with a tapered end. All leatherwork was sourced, revived and expertly hand-stitched using waxed linen thread by Caroline Strecker of Rag of Colts.

Finally, for protection and to give the desired sculptural feel, the bag was gently brushed with a traditional, natural sizing.

Dimensions: Height - 33cm, Length - 36cm, Depth - 5cm

Artists - Janet Tristram & Cameron Short in collaboration with Caroline Strecker.